I could have sorted this for you up until a month or so ago but my link-man has moved!
The key thing is to drill out the end of the crack to prevent it propagating and then dress it correctly before welding so you get what is called a "v-weld with deep root". Drilling through the end of the crack with a small-ish (3mm-4mm is about right) drill prevents the crack spreading, basically by removing the sharp end of the crack. If you don't do this because the end of the crack is so thin you will get no penetration right at the tip (so many innuendos) and the crack will just pick-up from where it left off and spread again. If you get a stress riser at the end of the weld, potentially it carries on as it was doing and heads backwards in two directions (like a Y shape) either side of the weld!
By drilling it out you make the end of the crack large enough that you can puddle weld in this area and get a solid weld-stop point with zero stress risers or un joined bits.. Hopefully that makes some sort of sense? If not I will do some sketches!
The team dynamics are known for cracking, from past experience and having had a few done before in the past, any cracked wheel in my book is scrap, there never right again after a repair, I know it's throwing money away but better to cut your losses than end up with other issues down the line,